Hong Kong

Sunday, 18 October

I thought that was the last entry but decided to add a little about the journey home ... which is not over yet. Left Toulouse as scheduled at 7.30 on Friday and flew Lufthansa to Frankfurt and then Prague. Spent most of the day in the airport waiting to check in. I think it was 7 or 8 hours. Flew Finnair to Helsinki and on arrival was told the flight to Hong Kong had been delayed and we would fly in the morning. So we hopped into a shuttle bus and were taken to the Holiday Inn, where George from Sydney and I had a drink in the bar before retiring to our rooms.

Back to the airport on Saturday morning where the flight was again delayed but only for an hour this time. A good flight to Hong Kong but of course we had all missed our connections so this time we were put up at the Regal Airport Hotel. Am now at the airport waiting for the final flight - I hope! It departs at 7.10pm and gets to Melbourne at 7.20 Monday morning. I think I have taken the long way home!

 

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Domme to Toulouse

Thursday, 16 October

This morning we woke up to people setting up their stalls for market day in Domme. There were many things we loved but couldn't bring home, like wines, honey, sausages, cheeses and even truffles. Rob picked up some terrine and pate for lunch and they were delicious.

We had the usual cuppa in the cafe on the corner. The waiter's daughter is in Australia, studying we think. Spent the rest of the morning wandering around the market and a couple of the tourist shops. I loved the cans of duck confit, cassoulet and other French delicacies which were very heavy and probably wouldn't get through customs.

After lunch we finished packing and set off for Cahors, which has a bridge Judy has been longing to see. We found a parking spot and walked to the bridge, which was nice but not that special. When we walked under it there was a sign with a map on it and Judy said:"This is the wrong bridge." After a brief break for a cuppa we walked back past the car and there was the right bridge, a UNESCO world heritage structure, and well worth the effort of finding it.

From there we drove to Toulouse and our hotel at the airport, where we had a last meal together. Tomorrow I fly to Frankfurt at 7.20 to begin my journey home, so it's an early start to a very long day. Rob and Judy have another month ahead of them, but this is auf wiedersehen, adieu and goodbye from me.

 

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Domme and Sarlat

Wednesday, 14 October

Today's excursion was to Sarlat, another honeycomb coloured town, about 13 km from Domme. Judy's guide said that the main street was pretty ordinary but that if you go beyond it is almost too good to be true. And that was right.

Most of the city walls have gone and the old town is full of little streets and lanes with limestone houses in all states of repair. Many of the roofs are made of stones which are very carefully overlapped up to a peak. They are extraordinarily heavy, about a tonne per square metre, and I'm sure there must be few people left who know the art of constructing them.

We were lucky enough to be here on market day and saw some wonderful cheeses and sausages, including kangaroo sausage. There were also cans of foie gras and all sorts of other French delicacies, way too heavy to take home and probably not permitted - but very interesting.

As we drove into the town we had seen people who appeared to be in a glass box on top of a roof. We later discovered that it was a glass lift which goes to the top of a church tower to show the view. The three of us ventured up and could see right over the rooftops, walls and town. The guide told us a little of the history of Sarlat and pointed out places of interest. A great thing to do with a ruined church.

We had a wonderful dinner at the swish restaurant over the road from our apartment. It's our last night in Domme and my second last in Europe. Tomorrow night will be an airport hotel in Toulouse.

 

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Domme and Dordogne

Tuesday, 13 October

Rob popped across to the boulangerie for croissants and bread this morning and later we went out for coffee and a walk along the wall to see the view. At one spot there was a team of sapeurs and pompiers ( like our SES) doing a practise rescue. They brought one of their team up the cliff and over the wall on a stretcher. There were lots of ropes and a petrol winch attached to a car. I am amazed that the "victim" could get up and walk about once they had him on the ground. My knees would have been jelly.

After lunch Rob drove us to the Chateau Marqueyssac to see its amazing gardens. It is famous for its topiary. We walked a long way along the cliff top and saw incredible views across the valley of the Dordogne. There were interesting little huts, a treehouse, viewing points and sculptures along the way and special pictures for children to find. Thankfully there was also a Salon de Thé at the end.

Below the cliffs and beside the river was another honeycomb coloured picture postcard town, La Roque Gageac. We stopped there briefly on the way home to take a photo or two. Rob managed to find the way back to our apartment seemingly effortlessly, round narrow twisting streets which were often one way. Judy is now cooking "chicken with 40 cloves of garlic" for our dinner. Life couldn't be much better.

 

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Pujols and Domme

Monday, 12 October

What a fantastic day! We handed back the boat and picked up our hire car, then headed for Pujols, one of Rob and Judy's favourite places - for good reason. It is one of Le Plus Beaux Villages de France, a series of picturesque villages.

Pujols is a bastide, a fortified town, on top of a hill with ancient buildings made of limestone. The houses have pretty little gardens or tubs of colourful plants, painted shutters and the occasional cat posing on a chair. It is incredibly beautiful and makes me wonder what would happen to someone who was a poor gardener or left car bodies lying around. There must be rules about maintaining the standard of the town.

From there we came to Domme and our gorgeous apartment overlooking the square. A pretty hairy experience for Rob bringing the car through the narrow streets and finding the right address. We have given Judy a score of twenty out of ten for finding this place. And oh, how spacious after the boat.

Domme is also a bastide, perched on limestone cliffs above the Dordogne River. The view over the river valley is spectacular, and once again the houses are made of limestone, only this time it is a richer, honeycomb colour compared to Pujols where the limestone is almost white. We are going to enjoy exploring this little town and the surrounding area for the next couple of days.

 

 

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Valence d'Agen to Agen

Sunday, 11 October

After a breakfast of coffee or chocolate and a croissant in Valence D'Agen we started our last day of sailing back to Agen. A cool start to the day but it soon warmed up.

We came through Pommevic where the trees by the canal were just as lovely as last time, stopped near a lock for lunch and stopped again at the same little cafe where we sat under umbrellas last time.

By 5.30 we were in Agen and squeezing into a very tight berth. We celebrated the end of the trip with a bottle of champagne and a long walk to a restaurant which had a radio theme. Absolutely exhausted by the time we got back, so a cup of tea and bed.

For those who were in Agen on the last boat trip you will be interested to know that the renovations to the station are complete and very impressive. Also there is a new ramp and even a lift to the bridge which takes you across the tracks.

 

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Moissac to Valence d'Agen

Saturday, 10 October

After a leisurely breakfast on the boat we walked into town for coffee and a look at the Saturday market. There were some lovely cheeses, fruit and veg, plants, knick knacks, meat and fish. We stocked up on some cheeses and bread for lunch. Oh, and cakes too.

We set off in the direction of Agen, passing through the swing bridge and into the countryside. Stopped on the side of the canal for lunch on the back deck in the sun. Bliss.

It was beautiful weather for driving along under the plane trees. All the locks were ready for us to sail straight in. We were locking down and I was amazed at how quickly they emptied compared to Germany. We were in and out in about 10 minutes or less, compared to something like 40 minutes in Germany.

Our port for tonight is Valence D'Agen. We had a gin and tonic with an English couple who own a very big, wide boat which they gave us a tour of. It even had a little pot belly stove. They come to their boat for six weeks about three times a year. Very comfortable but I would not be at all confident to manage something that size.

 

 

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Prague to Moissac

Friday, 9 October

Another travel day, which didn't go totally according to plan. Lorraine and I parted at Terminal 1 of Prague airport, she to fly home via Dubai and me to fly to Toulouse via Frankfurt from Terminal 2. So far, so good. Hopefully Lorraine is well on her way by now.

Apart from short delays for both flights it was all good to Toulouse, where I knew I had a very short time to get to my train. The luggage took ages to come through and the taxi rank was quite a distance from where I exited the Toulouse terminal. The taxi driver quickly understood that I was in a hurry to get to the station and did his best through peak hour and stopping for red lights. By the time I got to the station I had less then 10 minutes to buy a ticket and find the train. First problem was a system in the ticket hall that I didn't understand, then a ticket machine that was only for a special kind of card. Some nice young girls explained and showed me the other ticket machine. I went out to that and fortunately was able to select English and buy my ticket.

By now very little time till the train was due to depart so I rushed to the big departures board and found the train leaving at 19.21 from platform 2. Down the stairs and along the tunnel then up more stairs to platform 2 where a train was waiting. I jumped onto it and asked someone if it went to Moissac. they pointed at the little screen which lists stations. I couldn't see Moissac there so asked a guy on the platform who said it did go to Moissac. No time to check further as the train pulled out but I had a bad feeling about not seeing Moissac listed. Grabbed the conductor when he came by and sure enough, it was the wrong train and going in the opposite direction. His advice was to get out two stops along and catch the next train back to Toulouse, which would mean about an hour's wait.

I hopped off and found the bus station outside with a bus ready to depart. So journeyed back to the main station of Toulouse by bus, with a little help from a lady who showed me how to go below ground through the Metro to get back into the station.

As the 19.21 was the last train to Moissac I switched to Plan B and caught a taxi to Moissac. Very expensive but worth it when I met Rob and Judy in a little cafe near the Abbey. We had a lovely meal and walked back to the boat - Clairac, the boat Lorraine and I had on our first trip. It's great to be tucked up in bed after a day with three countries and 5 forms of transport.

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Untitled

Thursday, 8 October

It was a very early start this morning as we had to meet our taxi at the bottom of the steps at 5.30. Luckily the rain held off until we were at the airport. Got a bit damp running across the tarmac to the plane. We have been so lucky with the weather in Greece, perfect all week and just changing as we leave.

The flight to Athens was short and the wait in Athens was long, but OK. Our flight to Prague was packed but as it was only a couple of hours it was bearable. Drizzling and much cooler in Prague but as our hotel is over the road from the terminal building its not a problem.

Tomorrow Lorraine flies home and I fly to Toulouse and hopefully make a train connection to meet Rob and Judy in Moissac.

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Skiathos

Wednesday, 7 October

We did a bit of exploring our local streets today as Lorraine was keen to get to the Plakes, the rocks we can see from our window. This did mean that when we ran out of road we scrambled up an "almost" track (more like a drain) until we got to another path. It is difficult to decide what counts as road and what as path. The streets are very narrow and we are amazed at how cars and motorbikes get through them.

We continued parallel to the water for a while until we came to another little church with a bakery opposite, so we stopped to share a Skiathos cheese pie for lunch. Then we headed down the bakery street which took us back to the main street of town. Had a drink in a cafe, did some window shopping and headed up to a shady seat on the little promontory where we had a good view of the port. We like to keep an eye on the comings and goings of ferries and other boats.

The wind seems to have changed this afternoon. The water is a little choppy and the breeze is cooler. I think we have had the best of the weather. As we were walking back to our hotel one of the cafe owners called out "Hello Australia! Come and see. We're cooking pork on a spit for tonight." So of course we wandered over to see it and it looked good.

Have I mentioned the cats? Just like those calendars you see of Greek cats, they are everywhere and mostly very well-mannered. They sit beside you in cafes, look at you and wait politely for you to succumb to their charms. We have mostly resisted.

You have been wondering whether we went back to the cafe with the spit roast. Of course we did and it was delicious! A memorable last meal in Greece with a host whose ability to pull people into his cafe is a joy to watch and an education in itself. All topped off by a thunderstorm across the water.

 

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Skiathos

Tuesday, 6 October

Today has felt like a cross between a movie and a Greek legend. Going on the boat trip reminded me of "Shirley Valentine" only the guy on the boat was a lot younger and, I have to admit, better looking than Tom Conti.

We went part of the way around the island, stopping at Lalaria for a swim and then Kastro, for lunch in a tiny cafe. The Lalaria stop was a bit long for me as I didn't want to swim. It was amazing how the boat nosed into the sand, the boat guy put the ramp down to the beach and we were all able to go ashore without getting our feet wet. The water must drop very deeply for him to be able to do that. The boat then anchored a few metres out while we did our thing on shore.

It did the same thing at Kastro but this time stayed nosed in to the beach. I finally had the fresh fish I had been craving, with another Greek salad and Lorraine enjoyed more tsatsiki. The little cafe appeared to be in the middle of nowhere but we believe there was actually a road up above us somewhere.

The next part of the trip was where I felt we had sailed into a Greek legend as the boat took us through a narrow opening between tall cliffs which made me think of Jason and the Argonauts negotiating the clashing rocks. Fortunately there was no clashing, just beautiful green water and a few sea birds.

On our return to port we headed up to the nice cafe on the point for a cool drink and a little sweet treat.

 

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Skiathos

Monday, 5 October

After a relaxed start to the day and another delicious breakfast of nectarines, Greek yogurt and honey (Mmmmm!) we wandered down to the bus terminal to catch a bus up to the Evagelistrias Monastery, only to be told that the buses to that destination have finished for the season.

We had more success at the taxi rank so up the hill we wound with a few fantastic glimpses across the water to Skopelos. The monastery was made of sandstone and had some lovely old cypress trees. A monk was watering the gardens, a good thing as the pots of basil were looking thirsty. There were shady seats under grape arbours and an old church with icons, candles and domed ceilings. There was also a little shop selling liqueurs and olive oil made by the monks. The monk in the shop explained the workings of a very old olive press. It was cool, quiet and serene.

Our taxi driver returned to drive us back down to town and dropped us by the harbour in time for a leisurely lunch, after which we returned to the hotel for a little siesta. Later in the day Lorraine had a swim and I bought a hat in preparation for tomorrow's boat trip around the island.

So apart from climbing up and down those steep stairs to the hotel it has been a pretty relaxing day.

 

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Skopelos

Sunday, 4 October

A much more relaxed pace today. We caught the ferry to Skopelos, about an hour and a half trip. The sea was like glass and the sun was shining - idyllic!

Had lunch at a harbourside cafe and enjoyed watching two blokes stacking furniture and cushions way too high on their ute and taking it off somewhere. It's all part of the end of season packing up. Every day more places are closing for the winter. We had planned to take a boat trip around our island but they have all finished now.

We were told that there were terrible storms in Skopelos and Skiathos a couple of weeks ago. In Skopelos they had to ask the army in to help with the clean-up because lots of cars were washed into the sea. The only sign we saw were two big army diggers which were loaded onto our ferry when we were making the return trip.

Calm sea and sun on the way home too and I think we have both caught a bit of that sun. It is fascinating to watch the ferry loading and unloading huge trucks and mobs of people. It seems like chaos but they get the job done in minimum time and off they go again. Lots of people were heading back to the mainland today, I suppose because it's Sunday and they are back to work tomorrow. Aren't we lucky?!

 

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Skiathos

Saturday, 3 October

We woke up to a marvellous sea view from both our windows. It was overcast and cool first thing but turned into a glorious, sunny day. Our host gave us a much better map and made some suggestions of places to eat, where to catch a bus, etc. She told us that many shops and restaurants are closing down for the winter now as the tourist season is officially over. This meant that when we ventured out there were very few people about. What a bonus. It must be packed in the height of the season.

To get to the port we walked down a lot of steep stairs. I was very glad of the handrail. The first bay is the old port and around a bend into the next bay is the new port. Both are lovely, with cafes all along the waterfront and some beautiful yachts in the marina.

We caught the bus to Koukounaries, which we are told is the best beach on the island. Had a walk along the sand and watched all the bar owners dismantling their umbrellas and sun lounges, and doing their end of season cleaning of their premises. A nice sandy beach but I think we do better in Australia.

Back in Skiathos town we chose a cafe for lunch and I had the Greek salad I had been looking forward to. Lorraine loved the home-made tsatsiki with its creamy Greek yoghurt.

As we were finishing at the cafe a big ferry came in so we watched it unloading people and trucks and cars. Then we crossed the road to the booking office and bought tickets for a ferry ride to Skopelos tomorrow. This is the island where "Mama Mia" was filmed and where Valerie taught English years ago.

The main street of Skiathos is almost a pedestrian zone, except for the occasional car and many motorbikes. We had a look in the shops, many of which were closed, and enjoyed the fact that there were so few people about. Lots of quaint alleyways off this street, many of them going up steeply.

Dinner was at Marmita, a restaurant recommended by Orsa, our host. Tonight was its last night before closing for the end of the season. We had a lovely meal and then the waiter brought us a piece of Greek cake for dessert and a tiny glass of "firewater" on the house.

We struggled back up the million steps for the second time today and expect to sleep well tonight.

 

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Berlin to Skiathos

Friday, 2 October

Today has been a travel day so not much to write about. A good flight from Berlin to Athens and a long stopover before a very short flight on to Skiathos.

Our taxi dropped us at the Panagia Limnia Church where we met by Christos, who picked up our cases and led us down and around cobbled streets to our hotel. It was dark and we turned lots of corners so we have absolutely no idea where we are, but our room has a balcony overlooking a tiny bay and we can hear the sound of waves lapping gently far below us.

I have been studying the map I picked up in the airport and still have no idea where we are but I expect that all will be revealed in the morning, perhaps while we are enjoying breakfast in the garden.

No photos today so I am including one of the bears we saw all round Berlin, decorated in all sorts of colours and patterns. They reminded me of the elephants we had in Melbourne a couple of years ago.

 

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Berlin

Thursday, 1 October

Today LorraiAne and I went our separate ways, she on a "Fat Tire" bike tour and me actually doing some hopping on and off.

I started at the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche, a ruined church tower left as a reminder of the war. My next stop was Checkpoint Charlie, where there were some good displays about the checkpoint as well as a Macdonalds with a view and a lot of tourists.

At the Gendarmenmarkt there are three impressive buildings: the concert house and two identical churches facing each other, the German church and the French church. There is also a shop dedicated to Ampelman.

Next stop was Museum Island and the Neues Museum which houses an amazing collection of Egyptian, Roman and other artefacts. The beautiful sculpture of the head of Nefertiti did not disappoint. She was top of my list of things to see in Berlin and she took my breath away. The grounds around the museums are lovely with places to sit and enjoy the gardens and sculptures.

The Brandenburg Gate was another highlight though it was somewhat obscured by fences, portaloos and hoardings in preparation for the celebrations of 25 years since reunification, which will take place in a couple of days.

That was my last bit of hopping off and I stayed aboard until the bus brought me back to Kurfürstendamm, where I had a cuppa and cake before putting my feet up at the hotel. Lorraine came back very pleased with her cycling and having seen a few sights that I missed. This is an interesting city and there is a lot more to be learned about it. However our time has run out and we head off to Skiathos in the morning. We have had a beautiful, sunny day today. So hopefully there is more to come in Greece.

 

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