Wednesday, 31 May. Niagara Falls

It was about a 2 hour bus ride to Niagara Falls, passing some of the satellite suburbs with their huge tower blocks of apartments. There were roadworks going on and they are definitely much needed. I suspect that I’ve lost a centimetre in height from having my spine pounded by the bumps we hit.

You definitely get a better view of the falls from the Canadian side but as we came into the town I was horrified by the horrible sideshow type buildings like ghost trains, Ripley’s Believe it or Not and many many more. And then there’s a couple of casinos too. Once you’re past all that stuff there are the falls and they’re magnificent, awe inspiring, and every other superlative. 

I went on the Hornblower boat, the Canadian version of the Maid of the Mist, even though I didn’t particularly want to. But it was part of the deal so I put on my red plastic poncho along with everyone else and off we sailed, too close to the waterfall! This time I didn’t get soaked to the skin as I did at the Iguasu Falls, and the hot day dried off my feet pretty quickly. 

My bus tour had 7 people. There was an Irish mother and daughter on their way to a wedding in Montreal so we had a laugh about that coincidence. Lunch at a restaurant overlooking the falls was included in the tour but it was a pretty ordinary meal with a grumpy waitress. I dare say she was hot, and sick of running around after tourists.

After crossing the road for a last look at the falls we went about 7 km down the road to where they believe the falls originally were before erosion moved them further and further back. They now limit the amount of water going over (at night) and that has slowed the erosion considerably as well as providing more hydro electricity.

A little further along we stopped to see the whirlpools where the river makes a sharp turn to the right. There are definitely no boats going through that part of the river, it was really wild. There is a cable car that crosses the river there.

Our last stop for the day was in Niagara on the Lake, a very quaint little town full of historic buildings which are now mostly tourist shops. It was all very pretty and the plantings along the street were colourful and impressive. I had an ice cream from the Cows shop, which was recommended by our courier, and found a seat in the shade to eat it. Just right on a hot day. And then I broke my vow not to buy anything in Canada because I’ll have to carry it - and bought a hat. I was actually looking for a new sun hat last summer but couldn’t find anything I liked so I hope I’ll still like this one when I get home. Also hope it isn’t squashed beyond redemption.

A bone-shaking drive back to Toronto - only some of the way - arriving around 6.30. I couldn’t be bothered going out for a meal, especially after 3 courses at lunchtime, so I’ve tucked into a nutty assortment I bought back in Banff. Am now waiting till 9.50 so I can check in to tomorrow’s flight. Forgot to say that the hotel alarm went off about 5.30 this morning and I thought I might have to run out to the street in my nightie. Fortunately they very quickly solved the problem and we were able to go back to sleep.

Tuesday, 30 May. Toronto

Can you believe that we got into Toronto about an hour early after being late most of the way. We saw the usual beautiful lakes, forests and rivers this morning but noticed more roads, towns and holiday cabins. As we approached the city there seemed to be a number of satellite towns with tall blocks of apartments and forest in between.

My hotel, the Fairmont (!) is directly opposite the station and very luxurious. It’s one of the famous ones built to bring in tourists as the railroad was completed. 

Having checked in and done the necessary bit of washing, I collected a map and some advice from the concierge and walked down to the waterfront and then back up past the CN Tower. There were lots of people in Blue Jays shirts on their way to a baseball match. The temperature today was 27 degrees so it was a hot walk and I was happy to have a 15 minute cool down back at the hotel before changing and heading back to the CN Tower for dinner.

Did a complete circuit in the revolving restaurant as I ate my dinner. Decided that this was a night to try another cocktail. It was called “In Bloom” and was OK but not as good as the one in Vancouver. The meal was most satisfactory.

Once again I’m in bed and exhausted but this time the bed’s not rocking and rolling, so I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep.

Monday, 29 May. Via Rail

Back to forests this morning, with lots of lakes, some of them huge. Have seen a number of lakeside cabins and boats and more beaver lodges on the small ones. There are a lot of dead or sick conifers like we saw in the Rockies. A beetle gets in and causes the damage. We were told that it is only killed by fires which will regenerate the trees.

We have continued to see lakes all day and very few roads. The train has to toot whenever it approaches a road crossing and we have hardly heard any toots. There are many many silver birches with their white trunks standing out against the green conifers and blue sky - yes, blue sky!

Another observation from the first few days of the trip (when I was too tired to write) relates to posing for photos. Once you’d just stand and smile but these days you have to strike a pose with the right angles and expressions for social media. Doesn’t matter if there are others wanting a picture at the same spot, you have to take lots so you can use the best one. I can’t tell you how stupid some people look, males and females, fluffing up their hair, trying different poses and faces, and not at all embarrassed about doing it in front of a crowd. 

Later … The train had about a 20 minute stop at Hornepayne this afternoon and I was able to get off and have a walk up to the engine. At the last two stops I wasn’t game to get off because the step up on to the train was so high I didn’t think I could make it. It was about 27 degrees outside, a bit of a shock after the cool of the train. It’s actually cold in the dining car. I have no idea what it will be like in Toronto tomorrow. We are supposed to get in about 2.30 but they’ll have to make up the 2 hours we are now running late. We frequently have to stop and allow freight trains to pass and often have to sit for half an hour or so. This is a very busy railway!

I’m tucked up in bed for my last night on the train, having become an expert at putting the bed up and down. It’s really very cosy at night. Less fun trying to put shoes on to go down the way to the loo in the middle of the night but I’m even getting better at that.

Will hopefully be able to send this tomorrow night in Toronto.

Sunday, 28 May. Via Rail

The bed was comfortable last night but once it was down there was even less space than on the Ghan. You could stand but it took some manoeuvring to turn round. Getting changed was a challenge but tonight I’ll put the bed down myself after I get changed.

I think the driver is trying to get back on schedule so our stops have been shorter than expected and I haven’t hopped off. Maybe tonight in Winnipeg. We are definitely seeing the prairies now with huge ploughed paddocks, silos and very few animals. There are lots of lakes, ponds and swampy areas and I’ve counted at least 14 beaver lodges.

As today is a slow news day I thought I’d give you my comments on the toilet in my Vancouver hotel. It was some sort of space age contraption with a whole control panel at the side. As soon as your rear hit the seat there was a pffft sound and I think some kind of disinfectant was sprayed. There was a card with bum washing, drying and probably ironing instructions but I was intimidated and restricted myself to the normal flush. However, for about 5 minutes after the dismount, the wretched thing continued to buzz. Most annoying when you were back in bed trying to sleep.

Later… As we were still running very late we didn’t reach Winnipeg until somewhere after 1 a.m. so most of us were well and truly tucked up in bed. The whole crew changed in Winnipeg so new staff the next morning.

Saturday, 27 May. Jasper to Via Rail Train no. 2

Once my packing for the train was done I went for a bit of a walk and to take a photo of the mountain that looks like a sleeping man. It was surprisingly warm so my fleece jacket was stuffed into my train bag. I had no idea whether it would be warm or cool on the train.

Checked out of the hotel and was picked up for my ride to the station at 11.15 for an 11.30 check in. The station is a lovely historic building which has been restored beautifully. Unfortunately the train was running very late. It was due to depart at 12.30 but we finally left Jasper at 4.00. I went over the road for a snack and a coffee in an Italian restaurant. Good coffee and wickedly delicious Italian donuts.

There were a lot of people waiting in the station building and when the train arrived a lot got off so there was much for the train staff to do. Finally we were installed in our cabins or seats and off we set. My Sleeper Plus cabin is as small as I expected and fairly basic. There is both a curtain and a door. The toilet/footrest opposite my comfortable chair is bizarre and at this stage I have no intention of using it. Just checked out the closest loo and it will have to do, though it’s a sad come-down after the Rocky Mountaineer. Can’t see myself putting the bed up and down in the middle of the night.

I’m booked in for the third sitting for dinner, about 9.00pm. My neighbour across the corridor is Ian from Cumbria and we’ve had a couple of nice chats. He has been doing a lot of walks on the fells, which sounds like something Judy B would love to do. 

Our sleeping car attendant said that today is probably the last chance to spot a moose, so that’s that and I’m not going to whinge about it any more. We were so lucky to see those bears yesterday. Today’s tally is one white tailed deer and a few ducks and geese but it’s not dark yet so you never know. We left the Rockies behind soon after we left Jasper and are now passing through heavily forested country. The town we passed through a while back was a timber town and we see quite a bit of timber on the passing trains.

Later … Passed through an area that’s recently burned and there were still some smouldering stumps. Couldn’t see any sign of damage to houses etc, just forest, so hopefully not too bad. Hopped off the train for a few minutes at Edmonton and could see the city in the distance. Didn’t want to be left behind so I was back on quickly.

A pretty terrific 11 hour journey along the Icefields Parkway from Banff to Jasper was today’s itinerary. We had to pick up people at Lake Louise so there was a quick stop there and with the sun out the lake looked even better than yesterday.

We saw Castle Mountain from another angle and stopped for a look at Bow Lake which is fed from one of the glaciers and has that blue colour that comes from rock flour, very fine sediment that reflects that turquoise colour.

We had about 20 minutes at Saskatchewan River Crossing (I think) to eat our packed lunch. I didn’t quite finish my huge and very tasty chicken wrap. 

Then it was on to the Athabaska Glacier where we went up onto the glacier in an ice explorer vehicle. We were all rugged up for walking on the ice but it wasn’t as cold as I expected, and fortunately not as slippery either. We were so lucky to have a lovely sunny day.

After this we transferred to another bus which took us a few kilometres to the Colombia Icefield Skywalk. This is a semicircular glass walkway suspended high over the valley. I was not too keen on doing this but decided I should have a go and after a few moments of hesitation stepped on and round without looking down. Not my favourite attraction as you could get the views from all along there but it was one of the few things disabled people could do so maybe worthwhile after all.

Continuing along the way, the woman in front of me suddenly shouted “Bears!”  The bus driver went a little further and turned the bus back for us to see them - a mother and two cubs, one of which ran across the road and disappeared. We had a really good look at the other two. Further along still we saw another one. These were black bears. And then the driver once again turned the bus around for a grizzly bear! So we really hit the jackpot. 

No moose but apparently they are calving at this time of year and go deep into the forest.

Our last stop was for the Athabasca Falls. They were lovely but nothing compared to the excitement of the bears.

Arrived at my hotel sometime after 8 and decided to eat the rest of my packed lunch instead of going out to find dinner. Not the healthiest option but they’ll feed me well on the train tomorrow. Have to sort out a few items fro the train as my case will go into the luggage carriage.

There won’t be any wifi on the train so you won’t be hearing from me until I get to Toronto in 4 days.

Thursday, 25 May. Banff

A very relaxed and slow-paced morning in Banff as I didn’t have to be anywhere until 12.30. Walked up and then down the Main Street, stopping for a coffee at a promising-looking cafe. It was terrible. I knew I should stick to tea. Had tea at another cafe and that was fine. The part of Banff that I’m in is mainly hotels, tourist shops and restaurants. Whatever direction I turned while  on my peregrinations there was a mountain looming in the distance. On a sunny day I probably wouldn’t have used the word “looming”. Banff gets lots of points for its novel street signs (on three intersections)

At 12.30 I was picked up by a tour bus which took us to Lake Louise, stopping along the way for a couple of good views of Castle Mountain and a river and mountains across the train line I was on yesterday.

Lake Louise was pretty amazing. It would be difficult to design a more idyllic scene. The lake is a blue green colour and behind this were mountains, one with a good amount of snow. I followed a path part of the way around the lake and was able to look back at the famous Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. There were some quite good mountain reflections in the water. Did not bother to spend a fortune on coffee at the Fairmont. That would probably have tasted like dishwater too.

On the way back our driver stopped to give us a look at the Vermillion Lakes, just the sort of place you’d expect to see a moose or two, all swampy and full of delicious plants. But no luck. We did see some deer and a couple of ground squirrels. These squirrels don’t have fluffy tails and can’t climb trees. They are burrowers. They don’t stop still for photos either. One of the interesting things pointed out was an overpass for animals to save them being squished on the Trans Canada Highway. The highway is all fenced off as there have been some terrible accidents with animals on the road so the overpasses and some underpasses allow them to move around.

Another great day in Canada and although cloudy, it didn’t rain. Nor was there any smoke from the bushfires. I hear that we’ve sent some of our people to help fight them.