Friday 31 May. Broken Hill to Nyngan

 Plan A was to head to Mutawintji National Park and then on to White Cliffs today. However the rain meant that practically every dirt road in the region is closed.

Plan B was to take a different route to White Cliffs on sealed roads. We had booked in to the Underground Motel. However the National park was the reason we were going that way and exploring slippery, muddy opal mines did not appeal so we decided to give it a miss.

So we opted for Plan C, a sealed road and quite a long drive to Cobar. We knew this was ok because we checked at the Broken Hill Visitor Centre. A very helpful place, by the way. From Cobar we could head south in the general direction of Griffith.

Off we set for Cobar stopping at a couple of rest stops where we saw birds enjoying the puddles. Lots of water by the roadside in big puddles. We took a break and a look around Wilcannia. There were some beautiful old stone buildings but nowhere to get a cuppa. Fortunately we had bought a sandwich and a banana before we started out. We had our last look at the Darling River. Wilcannia was once the second largest riverboat port after Echuca. A riverboat towing a barge could move as 20,000 bales of wool. Today you would need 20 semi trailers to do the same job.

When we were well along the way, Renee phoned a motel in Cobar to organize accommodation only to be told there was no accommodation anywhere as the races are on this weekend. The lady even checked booking.com for us. All the roads heading south were either dirt and unusable or involved even longer journeys and turning back.

So we came up with Plan D, driving 130 km further on to Nyngan, where we were able to book rooms at a motel. We arrived a bit before 6.00, having been lucky enough not to encounter any kangaroos, although I did see one hopping away from the road. We have seen lots of emus and countless goats. The motel owner was a young Irishman from the same area as Renee. They had a great chat and I’m convinced that they must be related somehow.

Our rooms are tiny but clean and comfortable, just what we need after driving 585 km today. We had a great meal at the RSL, just across the road and are ready for an early night.

Guess whose Mum’s got a Whirlpool.

Thursday 30 May. Broken Hill

 Cold, wet and windy. We saved the things around town for today as the forecast all week has been for rain. 

I think it’s in the rules that you have to visit the Pro Hart Gallery when you come to Broken Hill, so that’s what we did. I liked some of his work better than I expected to. Judy B would love all the dragonfly images.

Next stop was the place with the big panorama … and it certainly was big and a panorama. There was a painting there that Renee loved but she restrained herself and we got out safely.

The Regional Art Gallery was next and it had some interesting modern indigenous work as well as a few big names like McCubbin and Streeton.

By now we were ready for some refreshment and the Silky Goat was just over the road and took care of that. There was another little gallery next door and we had quite a chat to the artist who works there and showed us her current project, a commission for the local campus of Sydney University.

It was pretty wet by now and we were a bit concerned about the road we were planning to take tomorrow as a considerable part is unsealed. Couldn’t find any road information on the internet so we went back to the visitor centre and the guy there said there’s no way the Mutawintji National Park will be open and even the sealed road to White Cliffs is doubtful. We are to return there in the morning to find out as they get the latest, and it seems only, updates on the roads.

Fortunately we have a Plan B and can put that into action as is probably going to be necessary.

Another gallery for me and the local library for Renee and then we returned to the motel for a game of Bananagrams and a cup of tea. 

We have been eating at a different pub each night and tonight was The Workies, but we discovered that they don’t do meals so we went back to the Demo Club for Wednesday Schnitzel night. It’s our last night in Broken Hill (unless there’s an awful lot more rain) and we have really enjoyed this city.

Wednesday 29 May. Broken Hill

Another sunny day and possibly our last. We drove out the Silverton road and turned off to the Day Dream Mine, as we had booked in for the 10 o’clock tour. Spoke to the bloke on the phone last night and he made it sound all right.

The above ground part of the tour was fine though our guide was clearly not a believer in climate change. But he had a good spiel which he had clearly developed over years. We donned hard hats with lights and started down into the mine. His idea of steps and mine differ greatly. There were some big steps, none of them were clearly defined and we were bent right over because the roof was so low. Thank goodness for the handrail. As usual I was slow because I was being so careful with my footing and by the time we had gone about 20 metres I decided that I was too slow, it wasn’t fun and I was worried about getting back up those giant steps. So I let them know I was heading back and they went on. Because of the handrail, getting out was easy after all but still not fun. About an hour later Renee and the rest of the group reappeared and Renee said that was the last mine she was ever going into. They were bent right over the whole way and the walking was not easy. It was interesting though. The best part was the Devonshire tea they served as part of the deal.

As we were more than half way to Silverton we decided to go back and have a look at the Mad Max Museum. My god daughter, Susan, has been watching all the movies in preparation for the new one just out. Took a few photos for Susan but the best thing about the place was meeting the owners who come from Bradford in Yorkshire. They loved the movies so much that they came out here, stayed and built the museum! 

We had a look at a small gallery with some amusing pictures. The owner was also an expert on Mad Max though he looked much too proper. I think you have to know the films well if you want to live in Silverton.

Back in Broken Hill we finally found a coffee shop shop that was open (in the bookshop). Everyone we meet is really friendly and loves living in Broken Hill.

The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Sculpture Park, a magical place at the top of a hill with a fantastic view back to Broken Hill and all around. The sculptures were a bit weatherbeaten but still beautiful and in the most amazing and inspirational location. Lots of people go there at sunset to take photos with the colourful sky behind the sculptures but we wanted to be able to see the carvings. The concept and the achievement of that sculpture park, with its artists from around the world is quite remarkable.

Dinner tonight was at the Astra Hotel. A great meal in one of the swankier hotels of Broken Hill. Very pleasant.

Tuesday 28 May. Menindee / Kinchega National Park

While the weather is so good we decided to do a big trip to the Menindee Lakes in Kinchega National Park, 110 km south east of Broken Hill. The countryside on the way was similar to what we saw yesterday. Some distance along the road was a sign telling us that we were now switching back to Eastern Standard Time, so we got to Menindee half an hour “later” than expected. Menindee was the first town established on the Darling River and the last stop for Burke and Wills.

There was a little cafe on the corner as we came into the town and we stopped for a cuppa and a cake, and bought a sandwich for lunch somewhere in the park. The town has some great sports facilities for kids and there was children’s art work displayed around the town. Some workmen directed us to a great spot to view the river.

Once into the park we followed the Lake Drive which took us along the edge of Lake Menindee, but we never got really close to the water. It’s a huge lake though. We also followed the Riverside Drive and got more views of the Darling and some pretty great places to camp. There were a number of signs warning people not to camp under trees as they are known for dropping branches. The road around the lake was red dirt and quite corrugated in places but my lovely car took the road surface in its stride.

By now it was about time to head back to Broken Hill as we wanted to be off the road well before dusk. We stopped at Sunset Strip for a final view of the lake from the other side before getting on our way. I have never seen so many dead kangaroos as we did today. There were lots yesterday too. We also saw a number of emus, lots of goats, a few sheep and two living kangaroos, fortunately not hopping across the road.

Got back to Broken Hill and the SA time zone around 4.00. Bought petrol and got some cash out out at Woolies. Lots of places around here only want cash. Dinner tonight was at the Demo Club. I wondered about demonstrations but turns out it’s The Barrier Social Democratic Club. It is T bone Tuesday so we had a $25 T bone which was very good, though of course it didn’t compare to the eye fillet we had in Mildura!

Ready for another early night after our big day.

Monday 27 May. Broken Hill and Silverton

 We started the day at the Tourist Information Centre where Pat, a lovely volunteer, gave us heaps of pamphlets, maps and ideas for the next few days. 

First stop was the Line of Lode (mullock heap) which dominates the town. From the top we could see the whole of Broken Hill. The miners’ memorial sits up there and shows the name, age and cause of death of the hundreds of miners killed throughout the years. There were some horrible deaths of very young men .

From here we headed out to Silverton which was only about a half hour drive. There were very few houses and I don’t think you could live there unless you were a pretty colourful character.  The Mad Max Museum was closed but the facade and front garden were pretty interesting. Fortunately the pub was open and we had lunch there while a few donkeys wandered past. There was a Mad Max VW parked out front, with an unusual love story attached.

Just 5 minutes beyond Silverton was the Mundi Mundi lookout. The view from there is enormous and the road seems to just disappear in front of you.

Back in town we stopped to look at the 1915 ambush site. A train load of picnickers was shot at by two Turkish camel drivers who were later hunted down and shot. A number of people were killed or injured in this, the only hostilities on Australian soil during World War 1.

Next stop was the beautiful Trades Hall building. The hall,inside was lovely and we watched a video about the history of the trade union movement in Broken Hill.

By now we were ready for refreshments so we stepped back in time at Bell’s Milk Bar. Renee had a Widgie’s Blood spider and I had a Mars Bar milkshake.

Our final landmark for the day was the Palace Hotel, famous in “Priscilla Queen of the Desert”. We had dinner there and “admired” the murals all over the walls and ceilings. 

 

Sunday 26 May. Mildura to Broken Hill

 After a big breakfast ( included in hotel room fee) we set off on the Silver City Highway. It would have been just after 10.00. I was delighted to see orange trees full of fruit but didn’t feel inclined to offer to help with the picking.

It was only about 30km to Wentworth where the Murray and Darling Rivers meet. There is a lovely park where you can see the conjunction of the rivers. We saw pelicans, galahs, cormorants, ducks, budgerigars and birds we don’t know. Must have spent an hour or more there. A few hundred metres on was Lock number 10 and a weir. This lock is only 30.8 metres above sea level.

Once we left Wentworth there were no more settlements until we reached Broken Hill. The landscape was mostly flat and scrubby. At one spot there was a lake in the distance. We did see a few crossroads and the occasional driveway and letterbox but no houses. There were a lot of dead kangaroos and a lot of living goats. We also saw two big trucks loaded with goats heading towards Mildura. The other wildlife was a wedgetailed eagle circling above something, maybe one of the baby goats and a couple of emus.

There were quite a few rest stops along the way and the one with toilets was a dud because they were both out of order. There was a strange winged sculpture nearby.

We arrived in Broken Hill about 3.00 and looked for a cafe that could give us a cuppa but the only one that looked open was actually closing and sent us away. We finally got a green tea and a brownie at the BHP - Broken Hill Pub. They had run out of coffee beans and had no ordinary tea bags, just green tea and Earl Grey. Sat on their terrace to have our cuppa and it was hot there. Renee was down to short sleeves and I had removed my jumper.

Our motel rooms are upstairs (bugger) but quite comfortable and this evening we could walk a couple of blocks to dinner at the Sturt Club. My advice to potential travellers is don’t arrive on a Sunday afternoon. Everything is closed. I got a shock to discover that my watch was half an hour different from the time on my phone but the booklet in the motel explained that Broken Hill is on South Australian time, so my watch hadn’t run mad after all.