Monday 3 June. Griffith to Echuca

 We set off at 8.00 this morning, stopping for petrol and a photo of orange trees laden with fruit. The ones we bought at the market yesterday were delicious.

By the time we reached Jerilderie we were ready for a snack. I can recommend the hot cinnamon donuts at the bakery. Lovely and warming with a hot cuppa. It was 4 degrees when we left Griffith and about 8 or 9 by Jerilderie.

Today we saw a couple of emus, two wedge-tailed eagles and more dead kangaroos. There have been ploughed paddocks and newly sown crops, grape vines, orange groves, sheep, cattle and 

cotton. There were little bits of white cotton along the roadside for kilometres.

We stopped briefly in Deniliquin and a little later detoured 11 km to see a nice spot on the Edward River. The was a caravan park right there but no one around. Just the river and the birds. Ah, the serenity!

Then it was south to Echuca, crossing both the Campaspe and Murray on a huge new bridge. We walked the length of the main street and down to the river. There were paddle steamers and houseboats galore. A big touristy discovery centre is attached to the old wharf, all very different from the last time I was here. I guess the fences and buildings protect the wharf from vandals and graffiti but I liked it better in the “old” days.

It’s a freezing night but after dinner at the Royal Hotel we are now tucked up and cosy in our rooms with the heaters working hard.

Cotton

Perfect spot to sit and contemplate life.

Sunday 2 June. Griffith

  Like many of the occupants of Griffith we wandered down the main street for a relaxed breakfast. Not many places open but those that were, were busy.

Then it was off to the Showgrounds for the Sunday morning Rotary Club market. It was a small market, with some fruit and veg, old tools and machinery bits and in a shed there were knitted hats, olives, honey, cakes and biscuits. We bought a few items in there and a couple of oranges outside. Griffith really is still very strongly Italian. Couldn’t understand the biscuit lady and the orange man was also a challenge. Both were as old as the hills, with voices not as strong as they had once been, so that was a factor too.

Next we visited the Regional Art Gallery, one room next to the war museum with a very disappointing exhibition of pale blue paintings. 

That didn’t take long so we hopped in the car and drove up to the Pioneer Settlement. This was much more interesting, with a big museum of the history of Italians in Griffith. There were also a number of old buildings which had been transported there. One was the old hospital which had an iron lung displayed and a great video about the development and use of it during the polio epidemic. We chatted to John in the blacksmith’s. He’s a volunteer who comes in when he is sick of working on his orange farm. Building number 21 housed the Knitted Garden, created by the Natty Knitters. Words fail me …look at the photos.(And I didn’t take it all.)

By now we were hungry so we found our way, eventually, back to the main street and a very good pizza at Little Italy. Griffith was designed by Walter Burley Griffin and, like Canberra, is laid out in radiating lines and circles/roundabouts. It’s a bit tricky when you also have to find a way across the railway line. I’ve pretty much got it mastered when we’re soon to leave.

After lunch we went back up past the Pioneer Settlement to the lookout by the Hermit’s Cave. A great panoramic view and no, we didn’t bother scrambling down into another difficult underground hole. Forgot to mention that we saw a little man aging at us so we stopped for a photo and found ourselves chatting (Renee actually) to some lovely Turkish men who take their gozleme van all around the Riverina. They gave us a sample but we were too full of pizza to buy any. Shame as it was delicious.

Last thing for the day was a row of sculptures down by the canal. A nice setting for some mostly interesting sculptures. As we didn’t finish lunch till 3.00 we’ve skipped dinner. Just a cuppa, a biscuit and an orange back in our rooms. I haven’t turned a TV on since I left home but I might tonight if I can stay awake.

Saturday 1 June. Nyngan to Griffith

Today was another day of driving, this time from Nyngan to Griffith via Parkes. We left the goats behind somewhere round Nyngan and only saw 3 emus today. The countryside changed from scrubby plains to farmland and trees, making us want to turn back to those endless vistas of saltbush and red earth.

We stopped for brunch in Parkes but I’m sorry to say that the Paragon Cafe was no paragon. However we found the Telstra shop before it closed and sorted out Renee’s rapidly running out internet allowance and that was a big relief for her.

Our next stop was Ardlethan, where we had a lemon squash at the pub as nothing else was open. We learned that Ardlethan is the home of the Australian kelpie sheepdog, bred here in the 1870s.  It was also the home of Frances Alexander Bradley, winner of the 1937 Stawell Gift. His win is commemorated in a terrific statue made of all sorts of scrap metal.

Continuing on from Ardlethan we found ourselves in Barellan, home of Evonne Goolagong and a very big tennis racquet.

And now we are ensconced in a very nice motel in Griffith, where we plan to spend two nights.

The head of a prize-winning Murray cod on the wall of the pub.

Friday 31 May. Broken Hill to Nyngan

 Plan A was to head to Mutawintji National Park and then on to White Cliffs today. However the rain meant that practically every dirt road in the region is closed.

Plan B was to take a different route to White Cliffs on sealed roads. We had booked in to the Underground Motel. However the National park was the reason we were going that way and exploring slippery, muddy opal mines did not appeal so we decided to give it a miss.

So we opted for Plan C, a sealed road and quite a long drive to Cobar. We knew this was ok because we checked at the Broken Hill Visitor Centre. A very helpful place, by the way. From Cobar we could head south in the general direction of Griffith.

Off we set for Cobar stopping at a couple of rest stops where we saw birds enjoying the puddles. Lots of water by the roadside in big puddles. We took a break and a look around Wilcannia. There were some beautiful old stone buildings but nowhere to get a cuppa. Fortunately we had bought a sandwich and a banana before we started out. We had our last look at the Darling River. Wilcannia was once the second largest riverboat port after Echuca. A riverboat towing a barge could move as 20,000 bales of wool. Today you would need 20 semi trailers to do the same job.

When we were well along the way, Renee phoned a motel in Cobar to organize accommodation only to be told there was no accommodation anywhere as the races are on this weekend. The lady even checked booking.com for us. All the roads heading south were either dirt and unusable or involved even longer journeys and turning back.

So we came up with Plan D, driving 130 km further on to Nyngan, where we were able to book rooms at a motel. We arrived a bit before 6.00, having been lucky enough not to encounter any kangaroos, although I did see one hopping away from the road. We have seen lots of emus and countless goats. The motel owner was a young Irishman from the same area as Renee. They had a great chat and I’m convinced that they must be related somehow.

Our rooms are tiny but clean and comfortable, just what we need after driving 585 km today. We had a great meal at the RSL, just across the road and are ready for an early night.

Guess whose Mum’s got a Whirlpool.

Thursday 30 May. Broken Hill

 Cold, wet and windy. We saved the things around town for today as the forecast all week has been for rain. 

I think it’s in the rules that you have to visit the Pro Hart Gallery when you come to Broken Hill, so that’s what we did. I liked some of his work better than I expected to. Judy B would love all the dragonfly images.

Next stop was the place with the big panorama … and it certainly was big and a panorama. There was a painting there that Renee loved but she restrained herself and we got out safely.

The Regional Art Gallery was next and it had some interesting modern indigenous work as well as a few big names like McCubbin and Streeton.

By now we were ready for some refreshment and the Silky Goat was just over the road and took care of that. There was another little gallery next door and we had quite a chat to the artist who works there and showed us her current project, a commission for the local campus of Sydney University.

It was pretty wet by now and we were a bit concerned about the road we were planning to take tomorrow as a considerable part is unsealed. Couldn’t find any road information on the internet so we went back to the visitor centre and the guy there said there’s no way the Mutawintji National Park will be open and even the sealed road to White Cliffs is doubtful. We are to return there in the morning to find out as they get the latest, and it seems only, updates on the roads.

Fortunately we have a Plan B and can put that into action as is probably going to be necessary.

Another gallery for me and the local library for Renee and then we returned to the motel for a game of Bananagrams and a cup of tea. 

We have been eating at a different pub each night and tonight was The Workies, but we discovered that they don’t do meals so we went back to the Demo Club for Wednesday Schnitzel night. It’s our last night in Broken Hill (unless there’s an awful lot more rain) and we have really enjoyed this city.

Wednesday 29 May. Broken Hill

Another sunny day and possibly our last. We drove out the Silverton road and turned off to the Day Dream Mine, as we had booked in for the 10 o’clock tour. Spoke to the bloke on the phone last night and he made it sound all right.

The above ground part of the tour was fine though our guide was clearly not a believer in climate change. But he had a good spiel which he had clearly developed over years. We donned hard hats with lights and started down into the mine. His idea of steps and mine differ greatly. There were some big steps, none of them were clearly defined and we were bent right over because the roof was so low. Thank goodness for the handrail. As usual I was slow because I was being so careful with my footing and by the time we had gone about 20 metres I decided that I was too slow, it wasn’t fun and I was worried about getting back up those giant steps. So I let them know I was heading back and they went on. Because of the handrail, getting out was easy after all but still not fun. About an hour later Renee and the rest of the group reappeared and Renee said that was the last mine she was ever going into. They were bent right over the whole way and the walking was not easy. It was interesting though. The best part was the Devonshire tea they served as part of the deal.

As we were more than half way to Silverton we decided to go back and have a look at the Mad Max Museum. My god daughter, Susan, has been watching all the movies in preparation for the new one just out. Took a few photos for Susan but the best thing about the place was meeting the owners who come from Bradford in Yorkshire. They loved the movies so much that they came out here, stayed and built the museum! 

We had a look at a small gallery with some amusing pictures. The owner was also an expert on Mad Max though he looked much too proper. I think you have to know the films well if you want to live in Silverton.

Back in Broken Hill we finally found a coffee shop shop that was open (in the bookshop). Everyone we meet is really friendly and loves living in Broken Hill.

The rest of the afternoon was spent at the Sculpture Park, a magical place at the top of a hill with a fantastic view back to Broken Hill and all around. The sculptures were a bit weatherbeaten but still beautiful and in the most amazing and inspirational location. Lots of people go there at sunset to take photos with the colourful sky behind the sculptures but we wanted to be able to see the carvings. The concept and the achievement of that sculpture park, with its artists from around the world is quite remarkable.

Dinner tonight was at the Astra Hotel. A great meal in one of the swankier hotels of Broken Hill. Very pleasant.