Monday, 31 December

Montreal

Caught the metro into town today and started our exploring in the Old Port area. Wandered through a touristy market then down to the harbour. More ice skating happening, behind a big Ferris wheel. Not a boat in site as the water was frozen and everything had been packed up for the winter. You could see that the place would be full of people in summer.

Wandered through the old town with it’s shops and cafes until we came to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, which Karyn was keen to see. Unfortunately there was a queue to get in, going way down the street so we satisfied ourselves with the prospect from outside.

In the square opposite there were a pair of bronze statues that had a great little story about English and French Montreal which really appealed to me.

Next we followed Google maps’ directions to Crescent St, where I was keen to see the mural of Leonard Cohen. It was a long and circuitous trek but we finally made it, and discovered another district of restaurants and expensive boutiques.

Had lunch in the Winston Churchill pub. By now it was after three and would soon be getting dark, so we took a taxi up Mont Royal to see the view. It was a very hazy and cold one. So glad we didn’t attempt the steps!!!

The taxi driver complimented Karyn greatly on her French and he was not the first to do so. We are very lucky to have our own interpreter. After the mountain we were dropped at Place des Festivals to see “Luminothérapie”, an interactive light art work with domino-like lights.

From there we walked back to the Cathedral, the old town and the Metro home. Not much open near us but I was happy to come into our warm apartment and collapse. Will definitely not be staying awake for the new year. What a wimp!

Sunday, 30 December

Montreal

Our apartment here isn’t as flash as the last ones but the location is great. We are once again in Little Italy and there are lots of cafes and bakeries nearby. Check out the pole we can see from our kitchen window.

We spent a delightful morning in the Jean Talon market, looking at terrines, saucisson, fish, pies, cakes, fruit and vegetables, and lots more. My idea of a morning well spent.

Our coffee break was of a higher standard than usual as we had to try a couple of the works of art in the boulangerie/patisserie.

Lunch was also a treat as we had bread with cheeses, sausage and terrine. Mmm mmm!

After lunch we went exploring the neighbourhood, which is known for its wrought iron staircases leading to first floor dwellings.

Saw some gorgeous squirrels in a park and further in, people were ice skating on the lake.

The ice on paths, roads and open spaces is a challenge and some areas are simply “no go”.

Saturday, 29 December

Quebec to Montreal

We have now experienced another weather phenomenon, freezing rain, and it’s not nice. The rain comes down and wets trees and power lines and the ground and the water freezes. There were warnings about it on my weather site. A little breeze and the ice snaps off and hits the ground or whoever’s passing below. It can bring branches and powerlines down too. If we thought walking on icy snow was difficult, icy ice is much worse! Here are little bits at the bottom of our stairs that have fallen off the tree.

However the icy branches can be beautiful too, as we saw on our train trip to Montreal. When the sun was shining on the icy trees and bushes they glistened as if they were made of glass, quite like some of the fake Christmas trees we see. I tried to get a photo from the train, past the guy in the window seat and through the dirty window. You can almost get the idea.

The train was a little late arriving in Montreal, I think due to the ice. We caught a taxi to our B and B and here we are in a new apartment in a new city. Looks like we have all we need in the neighbourhood. Looking forward to exploring in daylight tomorrow.

Friday, 28 December

Quebec

Woke up to snow for our last day in Quebec. We’ve now had snow showers, snow flurries and snow. Walking was a challenge as it hadn’t all been swept away or gritted and it was difficult to discern the edge of the footpath and kerb. Also very icy in places. I could feel my leg muscles complaining after taking so many tiny, tentative steps.

Bus into town, coffee at the nice place where we had it yesterday and then off to the funicular to take us down to the lower town. Unfortunately the funicular was closed for snow clearing. We had intended to take the ferry across the river and back but they didn’t seem to be going anywhere fast so we went to plan B and headed for the Plains of Abraham Museum. But first we stopped to watch people having a ball on a toboggan run right outside the Château Frontenac.

I had to put my glasses away as the snow was freezing onto them and I couldn’t see. As soon as we entered the nice, warm museum the ice on our coats melted and dripped everywhere. I’m happy to say they had dried out by the time we left. The museum is in a building that looks like a castle. The displays were well done, very hands-on for kids and adults alike.

From there we walked back to Rue Cartier, which has become our favourite street, passing some interesting sights along the way, including a bloke with a little chainsaw sculpting an Indian out of ice.

After lunch in a very pleasant deli we trudged through more snow to our bus stop and caught the bus home. Peak hour and very crowded, but what an excellent bus service. About 15 minutes is the longest wait we’ve had, when we just missed a bus.

Arriving home our challenge was to make it up the ice covered stairs to our apartment. I held on with both hands, stepped extremely cautiously and made it to the top. Tomorrow we have to get down again - with our luggage!

Thursday, 27 December

Quebec

Into town on the bus as usual this morning. Tried my virtually non-existent French at the post office and the nice lady was very helpful when I got my twos and my twelves mixed up (again!).

We had time for a coffee before meeting our bus near the information centre. It took us a while to find a) a cafe and b) one that had room for us, but eventually we did and it was very good.

Finding our bus was the real challenge of the day as there were multitudes of buses at the meeting point and no way of knowing which one was yours unless you fought your way through the mobs and asked the driver. No little signs in the front of the buses to indicate which tour.

We eventually got sorted and on our way to an afternoon tour of the Montmorency Falls, the Isle d’Orleans and St Anne de Beaupre basilica.

 Enjoyed the falls, which are apparently higher than Niagara.

Over a big bridge to the island, and what a lovely surprise that was. It was real picture postcard
scenery, very rural with quaint houses iced with snow. Definitely the best part of the tour.

We also stopped at a couple of tourist traps - a chocolate factory and a copper studio. Not our cup of tea.

The last port of call was the basilica, an enormous church built in the 1920s after being flooded and burnt down numerous times over a period of a few hundred years. It was quite beautiful with Art Deco murals on the ceilings.

Back in Quebec again we were ready for a meal and stopped at an Irish pub we have passed every day. Enjoyed a drink, some nachos and a meal while listening to a singer/guitarist performing a lot of songs of our era. A good day.

Wednesday, 26 December

Quebec

Today we did a bit more exploring of our neighbourhood. Caught the bus to a shop recommended by our host but didn’t open till the afternoon. Obviously not the same Boxing Day sales mentality as we have. So we caught the bus back and checked out another area where there were supposed to be some nice bars to go to for a drink. But they were nothing special and little open because of the holidays.

Back to our normal bus and into town to the nice street near where Sarah lived. Had a lovely, and very welcome, cuppa and cake there. It was heaven to get in out of the cold.

Off then to explore the Plains of Abraham, site of a disastrous battle between the French and British. We had to very careful walking as it was so icy. No setting off cross country, we needed to keep to the road. It was amazing to see people skiing through a park in the middle of a city.

The museum we wanted to visit was closed today but we hope to see it on Friday. Back into the old city for lunch, a bit more wandering, then back on the bus to this morning’s shop. Unfortunately they didn’t have the Christmas decoration that Karyn was interested in but we both bought a neck warmer to wear tomorrow. We were also amused by a blow up Santa who was just a bit too big to take home.

Tuesday, 25 December

Quebec

Merry Christmas or Joyeux Noel!
Frost on the windowpane and croissants for breakfast. A relaxed Christmas morning.

Today is the coldest day we’ve had so far - minus 12 - so not very pleasant standing at the bus stop. Fortunately the buses come every 15 minutes or so, so we didn’t have to wait long.

Hopped off at our regular stop, Place D’Youville, and walked into the old town. There was a bit of a breeze this morning so it felt extra cold. Our destination was Bistro Le Sam at the Chateau Frontenac. What a good thing we had booked. There were mobs of people milling about and waiting for tables. The foyer had a long row of Christmas trees each decorated in a different way. I think they were some kind of fundraiser.

We were able to bypass the mob and go straight to our table, which was close to the windows and had a great view of the river. The meal was very enjoyable, the service was excellent, but the wine left much to be desired. The bubbly just wasn’t bubbly. Karyn tried a couple of kinds and none of them effervesced. Was it because the glasses had been washed in a dishwasher? Even the bottle we had for later on at home fizzed as we poured and then dwindled to a few mean little bubblets. Apart from that we had a lovely day at the Frontenac and by the time we left it was dark.

Every time we step outside we have to get well rugged up and we both laugh and grizzle about the process of getting all our gear on.

Home again to relax. Chris and I felt strong enough to sample the Yule log we bought the other day, while Karyn could only face a piece of dry toast ... and we thought she was the fittest!

Monday, 24 December

Quebec

We finally ventured into the old town today, walking through one of the gates in the city wall. We meandered along some pretty streets until we came to the top of the cliff, right in front of the Chateau
Frontenac. The funicular took us down into the lower town and that’s where we found all the other tourists and tourist shops. There was a nice little cafe, with hardly anyone in it, where we had our morning cuppa and cake. We couldn’t understand why it wasn’t packed with people. A little further on we saw Father Christmas having the same trouble he has at home - kids who don’t want to sit on his knee. These shoppers caught my eye.

We also saw men making maple syrup toffees from hot maple syrup poured onto a surface of ice.
Chris bought one and we had a taste. Very nice and chewy.

Lunch was in a tiny pub with stone arches. They had a real fire so we felt really cosy. Going outside again was a shock.

We walked across to the river and watched a ship being piloted through the narrows. Difficult walking there as the ground was very icy.

As we crossed back to the road we found ourselves opposite the Musee de la Civilisation so in we went. I loved a little carved pipe bowl.

A bit further on to the market but it was closing for Christmas so we only had a quick look. By the time we were back near the shops the lights were all on and it was looking very pretty and Christmasy.

Home on the bus in time for Karyn to Skype with her family who had gathered for Christmas. Our host popped in to check that everything was OK. I am worn out from all that walking and won’t be long out of bed.

Sunday, 23 December

Hello readers.
Just want to let you know that I am having trouble with my blog software which won’t let me scroll down the page and which regularly realigns my text. Please do not think that I am being slack about proofreading. I am doing the best I can under severely trying circumstances.
H

Sunday,23 December

Quebec

This morning we bought a weekly bus ticket and caught the 801 bus to town, about a 20 minute journey. We were very early for our brunch booking so had a little walk around the area, down a long flight of steps, past a derelict church (there seem to be lots of them) and  the oldest patisserie in Quebec, according to a man we were talking to.

After we climbed back up those steps it was a short walk across a little park, then a quick look at
some very French-style houses with beautiful zinc roofs and into the hotel which houses Bistro Ciel,
a revolving restaurant with a view and a half.

We enjoyed a tasty brunch as we completed a 360 degree revolution that gave us a birds-eye view of the whole city and beyond. A big thank you to Sarah Heemskirk and Anne for suggesting it. Once again we have been incredibly lucky with the weather. Today was very cold (-7) but sunny, with the fewest of few snow flurries. We now believe that a snow flurry consists of about 10 flakes wafting down.

After brunch we walked to the Musee des Beau Arts, with a little detour down a lively street full of cafes and shops. There was a special exhibition of modern art works by Marcel Barbeau. We enjoyed
playing with the magnetic shapes which mirrored some of his own works.

Another section of the gallery was housed in an old prison with tiny cells.

A third area had a window with a great view of people skating in a park.

As we left, we noticed a most unusual, but not very warm, fire.

Home again on the bus, enjoying  Christmas lights along the way.

Saturday, 22 December

Quebec

Can’t say I had the best night’s sleep in my narrow bunk last night, especially as I had set my alarm for 5.30 Quebec time while my iPad was still on Halifax time. This resulted in a 4.30 wake-up. I didn’t realise until after I was dressed, so I just hopped back into bed in my clothes. The train was due into Quebec at 6.15 but was running late and it was closer to 7.30 when we finally pulled into Sainte Foy Station.

A taxi took us to the lovely b and b, which our host has decorated for us. There’s even a Christmas tree! We are up the stairs on the first floor. There is icy snow on the ground here but it was drizzling this morning so it might not last. No more snow forecast till Friday.

We went to a very nice cafe around the corner for a morning cuppa (Proper cups and plates, no cardboard throw- away rubbish!) and then had a stroll around the neighbourhood before doing some food shopping. Had a fairly lazy afternoon doing a load of washing and considering plans for our stay in Quebec.

For dinner I cooked Judy’s specialty, chicken with 40 cloves of garlic, in honour of our first day in French-speaking Quebec.

Friday, 21 December

Halifax and en route to Quebec

Packed up our belongings and said goodbye to our lovely home in Halifax this morning. We boarded our train, “Ocean”, at 1.00pm and set off on our overnight journey to Quebec. Karyn and Chris are in the cabin next to mine. I have my own little bathroom, no shower though. We arrive tomorrow at 6.15am so won’t be worried about showers anyway.

They served a three course lunch in the dining car, which was very nice, though nothing like the Ghan of course. After lunch we walked to the back of the train and sat in the upper deck of the observation car.

The scenery has been quite reminiscent of our train trip from Oslo to Bergen last year. Lots of snow, frozen lakes and forests with conifers and silver birches. There has also been some farmland interspersed with little towns. By 4 o’clock it was getting dark but we enjoyed seeing Christmas lights on the occasional house that we pass and in the towns.