Mexico City

Tuesday 14 June

 

Today was our big day at the Museum of Anthropology and what a magnificent place it is! The building is superb (and has the best toilets we have seen on our trip) with a huge fountain in the courtyard that looks like a giant tree.

 

The displays are arranged by geographic location, so as we went from hall to hall we travelled around Mexico. Pottery is a feature in all areas and it is hard to believe that so much finely detailed work can have survived intact for so long.

 

There are also outdoor areas with gardens and huge stone edifices too big to be displayed inside.

 

We saw jewellery and masks made of jade, turquoise, gold, shell and rock crystal.

 

Chac Mol, the reclining God is one of my favourites.

 

Had a delicious morning tea in the cafe and also lunched there later on.

 

I remember Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent and Tlaloc, the rain god from my previous trip.

 

Our journey home in one of the pink taxis (avoid if you can!) was highly exciting. Firstly there was heavy traffic and police road blocks and detours to contend with. Our driver did not let a little thing like a red light stop him if he could bluff his way through and he even took us the wrong way down a one way street. In the end he put us out and pointed the way to our hotel about 3 blocks away, then had the cheek to ask for more money! He had already demanded a higher fee than he should because of the traffic. Needless to say we didn't oblige. Police cars everywhere near our hotel either for another demonstration or a presidential visit to a nearby government building. We never got to the bottom of it.

 

This should be the last entry for this trip as we fly home tomorrow. Hopefully no adventures worth reporting on the way. Thank you dear readers.

 

 

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Mexico City

Monday 13 June

 

This morning we caught a taxi to the Zocalo, the main square of Mexico City, a vast, empty and quite ugly space which has some interesting buildings around it. We started with the cathedral. Last time I was here it was in serious danger of collapse as it was sinking into the swampy land that Mexico City is built on. They must have spent a fortune on restoration as it seemed to be in great condition on the inside and we were able to go right in and look around.

 

At one corner of the square is the Gran Hotel Cuidad de Mexico, a most beautiful Art Nouveau building with a stunning stained glass ceiling. We went in for a look and a had a cuppa and a piece of opera cake in the cafe.

 

While we were enjoying that we watched numbers of police arriving on one side of the square, forming into lines with riot shields and redirecting traffic. No sign of any protesters though. Went over to check it out but nothing of interest happening. The waiter in the cafe said that there is always some group that's unhappy and there are protests there all the time.

 

All the museums are closed on Mondays so we had decided this would be a good day for the hop on hop off bus. We opted for the three hour city tour and climbed up to the top deck. Thank goodness for the cooler weather here, probably mid 20s we think. The commentary was all in Spanish but we enjoyed looking at the sights. The traffic was pretty terrible towards the end of the ride and we hopped off at a shopping centre for a bite of lunch, then caught a taxi back to our hotel.

 

Anne has been hankering (understatement) for a banana so we asked directions to a fruit shop and eventually found one despite the girl having given us wrong directions. Crossing the road is terrifying and our plan is to watch the other people and go like mad when they go. The green pedestrian light doesn't mean much to the vehicular traffic.

 

Watching CNN on the TV as we write this and hearing all about the latest mass shooting in Orlando. They are playing up the terrorism and hardly mentioning guns and assault weapons. When are they going to make the connection?

 

 

 

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Havana to Mexico City

Sunday 12 June

 

Sitting up in bed after a long, hard day of travel. Our room seems super luxurious because the temperature is comfortable and everything works - doors, taps, air conditioning, shower. We are both exhausted, which seems silly when it was only a 2 and a half hour flight.

 

The taxi trip to the airport took a very strange route and we seemed to be heading into the country for a while. We felt we were a bit old to be of interest to white slavers and we didn't look rich enough to ransom so we sat back and sure enough he turned onto the main highway again.

 

At the airport we queued for an hour to check in for our flight. Definitely not the most efficient system. Then we waited for our plane and snacked on some Pringles, while wishing for a banana or a mango or any bit of fresh fruit. Then we waited in the plane on the tarmac.

 

The flight was fine but they made us move seats because we didn't speak Spanish and we were in an exit row. So when it came time to get off the plane we had to wait for everyone to get off before we could go back and fetch our stuff from the overhead bins.

 

We then queued in immigration for an hour and a half! Agony on feet, dodgy knees and backs. And when we got to customs Anne was stopped for a bag check while I went straight through. I nearly laughed out loud as her bad luck with officials in airports continues. It was wonderful to see someone waiting for us when we finally got through and to be shepherded to a taxi and delivered to our hotel.

 

Bed now. Bliss!

No photos today so I thought I'd add this one.

 

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Havana

Saturday 11 June

 

Another relaxing start to the day, with a leisurely breakfast in the courtyard. Anne and I then sauntered up our street, Cuba St, to Obispo St. This is a mall so there is no danger of being run down by cars, bicitaxis or bikes. Lots of people out for a Saturday stroll and also tourists, as this is the main tourist shopping street.

 

A nice girl directed us to an artisan market where Anne finally found some lovely earrings. There are lots of shirts, straw hats, maraccas, carved wood and many many things with images of Che - which we didn't buy. There really hasn't been much that would tempt us.

 

Further along the street we found an ice cream shop, for which we were very grateful. Have I mentioned that it's hot in Cuba?! When it was time to pay the guy said it would cost 8 which we thought was a lot for two scoops each. However when Anne handed him a 20 cuc note we discovered it was 8 in the local money. I pulled some coins out of my purse and he took a 50c and offered us change from that. So they were actually very cheap ice creams.

 

We continued on to the end of the road and were delighted to find a shady park, and even more delighted to find the place where the classic cars hang out. We sat and watched people and cars for ages until a lady with a baby needed the seat more than us.

 

Back down to the other end of Obispo for a light lunch before returning to the hotel for the afternoon siesta. We've had a wonderful time in Cuba but will be happy to move on tomorrow.

Guess who had which drink last night.

 

 

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Havana

Friday 10 June

 

Had breakfast with the Adelaide couple before they departed for Cancun and New York. Ralph shared his Vegemite with me so a real breakfast treat. There was no rush today so we took our time this morning before venturing out.

 

Today's adventure was a ride in a classic car - a 1948 Ford. We only wanted an hour but somehow it turned into 3. However we had asked him to take us to Hemingway's house and that was quite a distance away in an outer suburb. It was an interesting drive there and a lovely house. How the other half live!

 

We saw a number of broken down cars including one that had lost a wheel and was stranded half across the road. Our driver took us through a couple of the wealthier suburbs and we stopped by a river where there were creepers covering the trees and pretty much everything else. It was like the jungle was taking its territory back. This was obviously a favourite stop for the classic car people as a number of cars came and went while we were there.

 

We finally returned to our hotel, scraped together enough Cucs to pay the guy and went inside to change more so we could have lunch. First it was a long, cool lemon drink in the hotel, then we walked back to yesterday's restaurant and shared an enormous chicken paella. Between the two of us we almost polished it off. Then it was back to the hotel to recover, have a little snooze and laugh at our photos.

 

 

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Baracoa to Havana

Thursday 9 June

 

This morning Vladimir took us for our last, very short, journey to the airport. We waved goodbye to him as he set off on the long journey back to Havana by road. He was going to pick up a few passengers along the way.

 

The rest of us checked in at the tiny Baracoa airport and caught our twin engine propeller driven plane for the much quicker flight to Havana. We said goodbye to Jose and also to Anne and Liam, as they are spending the last night at a different hotel.

 

After checking in we went around the corner to a lovely restaurant for a late lunch with Vicki and Ralph. They fly out tomorrow. This hotel is another that doesn't sell wifi cards so we walked down the road to one that does but charges like wounded bulls.

 

Anne and I were not happy with our room as the air con didn't work, it smelled mildewy and the sheets seemed damp. In the end they changed us to another room. This one has doors that require muscle to open or close and a light that doesn't work, but it's cool.

 

Once all that was sorted we went downstairs for a drink and a snack with Vicki and Ralph and then we all walked to the seafront to hear the 9 o'clock cannon. Still very hot and sticky but not quite as hot as Baracoa.

 

 

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Baracoa

Wednesday 8 June

 

Today was our last real day of the tour as we return to Havana tomorrow. Christopher Columbus came here in 1492 and planted a cross, the remains of which were on display in the church. We had a very interesting tour of the municipal museum with a most attractive and knowledgeable young guide.

 

From there we walked through the town to the main square and the church. We got a close up look at shops, visited the bank to change money and saw some colourful buildings. The paintwork is a constant joy - bright colours and unusual combinations that are so right in this setting.

 

Our wonderful driver, Vladimir, took us down more dodgy roads to Duaba Farm, a plantation with a huge variety of fruits. Here we tasted cacao seeds and saw the process of preparing the seeds for chocolate making. We also had a number of cups of delicious hot chocolate, definitely the real thing.

 

A few kilometres up the road was Rancho Toa where we had a little excursion on the river in a row boat. Pretty tough on the rower. Have I mentioned that it was HOT!!!!!? While we were on the river a head popped out of the water, a young man who had just speared a crayfish. This was followed by lunch in the open-air restaurant, and what a relief, no band to entertain us and expect a tip or sell a CD.

 

We returned to our hotel after lunch and headed to the pool to cool off. Bliss! This evening we will be going out to a seafood restaurant for our farewell dinner. We've been incredibly fortunate with our guide, driver and fellow travellers, all of whom have been punctual, helpful and great company.

 

 

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Santiago de Cuba to Baracoa

Tuesday 7 June

 

Today we set off for Guantanamo, not the infamous bay, but the province and town. We visited a small building where members of the Tumba Francesca society performed dances for us. They raise money to help people after events such as hurricanes or other disasters. It was great to see different generations dancing happily together and keeping alive traditions and rhythms dating back to the days of slavery.

 

Directly across the road we entered the House of Changui - Cuban rhythm. A great band played for us, demonstrating typical musical styles of the region. Music is BIG here, partly because they have so little else. These were fine musicians and it was such a shame to see the state of the double bass player's instrument. It was coming apart and had been partially taped back together. He deserved better.

 

Lunch was in a restaurant by a river and from there we headed to a lookout point where we could see the U.S. Base at Guantanamo Bay. It was hazy and quite far off. Apparently the U.S. pay Cuba about $4000 a year for the land, following some sort of deal many years ago, and the Cubans are so insulted they send the money back. Good on them!

 

We climbed and crossed a huge mountain with a number of landslides to be seen. A pretty hairy road. The country here is quite different, much drier and sandier. Tough for farming I should think. At last we arrived in Baracoa and checked into our hotel. Lovely view across the sea from our room. The other pairs have problems with their rooms so we are hoping ours is OK when we get back. Wifi is only available in the foyer so Anne and I are both busy here.

 

 

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Santiago de Cuba

Monday 6 June

 

We wondered what sort of place we were staying in last night when we were the only two in the restaurant, being serenaded by a pair of musicians. Just when we were finishing dinner a group came in.

 

Today has probably been the hottest and most humid of the trip so far. Santiago de Cuba is the second city of Cuba and also has a Revolution Square with a fine bronze hero on a horse - can't remember which one.

 

Santa Ifigenia cemetery had the tomb of Jose Marti, national hero of Cuba and of many other soldiers and revolutionaries, as much of the fighting in the various wars and the revolution took place here. We witnessed the very impressive changing of the guard which occurs every half hour.

Further into town we saw a very beautiful cathedral in the main square and had a tour through the museum of furniture and furnishings which showed all the periods and influences of Cuban history.

 

Every time we got back on the bus it was a huge relief to get some cool air. A short drive took us to the waterfront and the Caribbean Sea, where we briefly dipped our toes or fingers in. It was a shame to see broken glass and rubbish all over the pretty little beach.

 

Up the hill to the Morro Castle, built as protection from pirates and other invaders. We had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea before being returned to our hotels to recover. Tonight we'll be picked up at 8.00 to go out for dinner.

 

 

 

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Camaguey to Santiago de Cuba

Sunday 5 June

 

Today we covered a lot of kilometres through more lush tropical countryside. Saw a lot of beef cattle, sugar cane, bananas, rice and mangoes. Today at breakfast I finally got the mango I've been craving since we arrived in Cuba and saw mangoes dripping from the trees. We see lots of revolutionary slogans along the way but can't get photos because the bus is going too fast. Let's just say that the revolution can never be too far from people's consciousness.

 

We stopped for lunch and a little look around in Bayamo. Lots of people out and about in the squares. We saw children in a little goat cart and lots of tiny bicycles. It looked like the learn to ride zone. In another square, the usual young people at the wifi hotspot. Nobody has their own internet, it can only be accessed by purchasing a wifi card and going to one of the public wifi spots which usually seem to be in one of the squares.

 

After lunch it was back into our wonderfully air conditioned bus with our driver, Vladimir. No, he's not Russian, it's just a popular name, along with Alexei! We stopped at El Cobre Basilica, a very imposing building and quite light and beautiful. Pope John Paul blessed it in 1998 and that's how it got to be a basilica, which Anne tells me is the top of the range in Catholic churches - think St Peter's in Rome. Apparently some men had a vision that led them to the right spot for the church to be built, one of the requirements for a basilica.

 

From here it was a short trip to Santiago de Cuba, where we will be staying for two nights.

 

 

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