Saturday, 10 June. London

Today was my day to explore the coal hole covers of Spitalfields, a historic area, where from 1685 Huguenots who had escaped to London worked as silk weavers. Later came Jews and then Bengalis. This is also where Jack the Ripper’s victims were found in the 1880s.

25 covers were set into the streets in this area with designs linked to what went on there, eg, apples and pears at the Spitalfields market. I knew that a number of them had gone and my information was pretty out of date, but I thought I’d find 1 or 2. No such luck. I did find two places where a cover had clearly been removed.

The whole thing was an exercise in frustration as that area has been gentrified and there are many modern buildings and new pavements. Some of the old tatty areas are still there right by the modern luxury apartments. I walked down Middlesex St, also known as Petticoat Lane and it was sad and down at heel. Apparently there is still a Sunday Market there, but it’s not what it used to be according to the fruit juice seller I chatted with. He said I’d never find anything and he was right.

There’s an absolute maze of streets and lanes going in all directions and using an app on the phone doesn’t give you the whole picture. I’d have been much better off with a paper map if I could have found one. It’s quite funny to watch all the tourists, me included, walking along studying their phones as they try to find their way. 

I did find the Spitalfields Market but no apple and pear roundels, just some young men collecting money to try and stop youth knife crime. The market was packed with people and stalls with overpriced stuff. I needed a cold drink but the place I chose had no ice and as I was hot and bothered I decided to get out of there.

Had a look for ideas on the internet and decided that it would be cool and relaxed on the water so opted for a narrow boat ride from Camden Town Lock to Little Venice on the Regents Canal. Hopped off the train at Camden Town and had to fight my way through huge crowds at the Camden Markets. Too many people!

Finally found the right place, climbed aboard and off we went. It was a bit cooler once we were moving (28 degrees today!) and a very pleasant  45 minute trip past Regents Park Zoo and the homes of various pop stars, most of whom I had never heard of. We disembarked right where Rob, Judy and I had walked a few years ago. There were lots of people about and I had to queue for ages to buy an ice cream. Walked along beside the canal to get back to Paddington Station. Stopped for a cool drink and a bit of people watching before the last few metres to my hotel.

I might not have found those coal hole covers ( aka roundels) but I saw some interesting sights, got totally lost a few times and finally had a pleasant boat ride. The cafes and restaurants around here are generally pretty ho hum but I had a really nice meal tonight at a Turkish restaurant. Thought of Anne and Judy probably eating similar food. Turkish bread and dips. Yum!

And these dogs are paparazzi dogs that I found in the Norfolk Square garden. Rather topical at the moment, I thought.